Veracruz city, is one of the biggest port city in Mexico. It is also the oldest European founded settlement, which was conceived in 1590 and just recently celebrated its 500th birthday in 2019.
It is a city like all other big port cities, with its unique history, along with its mix of grime, romance, and melted-down cultures.
Veracruz has a blend of cultures, mostly indigenous, Spanish and Afro-Caribbean. The influence can be seen in the food and music.
We only spent 2 nights in Veracruz, so we had only a small glimpse of this big, industrial, historical city. Although somehow the city seemed empty and lonely. We thought we had become used to the Mexican heat after 2 years here, but Vera Cruz seemed to take heat to another level. It was at times, exhausting to be outside.
Just having one full day, we decided go to the Historical center and so we took a taxi from our hotel to the famous lighthouse at the city port. We walked along the boardwalk towards the historical center. Unfortunately, the center was under construction so we could not visit the Municipal Palace of Veracruz.
After walking around the Zocalo district, we decided to stop for a bit of nourishment, and some delicious coffee from Vera Cruz, at the historical Gran Café del Portal. This large and bustling cafe did not have air conditioning but the overhead fans were more than adequate to help us chill a bit, away for the Vera Cruz heat.
We were thankful that our hotel had a pool, shaded by trees which was a very needed , and refreshing break from the relentless sun. Vera Cruz is also known for its great Seafood, and other local delicacies. Our Sea Bass that evening was a great culinary treat, and a meal to remember.
We were picked up by our dear friends, Claude and Lucie, also our former neighbors from Puerto Morelos, who drove us to their home in Coatepec.
Coatepec, is the Coffee Capital of Mexico, and it is a charming, very green and very tranquil town. The name Coatepec comes from the Nahuatl (Aztec language) coatl (serpent), and tepetl (hill), or “The Hill of the Snakes”. (not that bad really!)
Coatepec (Cerro Coatepec, or Serpent Mountain) was a mountain that was sacred to Aztec mythology and religion.
Coatepec is quite a very friendly town, with the pleasant smell of fresh coffee all around. The center is dotted full of coffee shops and local shops artisan shops as well. As most small towns in Mexico, there is a farmer’s market on Saturday, and is a must-see if you are around this part of Mexico.
We visited nearby Xico, (pronounced Hico) another quaint and historical town, located high in the mountains of the Sierra Madre Oriental. It’s colonial-style architecture and cobblestone streets make it one of the best places in Mexico to walk around and explore this famous town, known as Magico Pueblo. Our visit to Xico first began with a beautiful 2 hour hike (literally breathtaking), that started at the end of a few kilometers drive into the jungle. We then began our descent to the Cascade de Texolo (Texolo waterfalls) and the Cascada de la Monja Texolo waterfalls. Cut off from all noise except the steady roar of the 2 nearby water falls, and surrounded by only dense green forest, we were overwhelmed by the beauty and spirit of peace that pervaded the area. This amazing location between 2 water falls, were captured and used in films such as ‘Romancing the Stone’ and ‘Clear and Present Danger’.
We were welcomed in Xico by a very heavy thunder and rain, (actually we all jumped about 4 feet when the lightning and thunder struck a mere nano second apart) and fortunately we found refuge under a leaky awning, at the main Plaza, that was protecting a motorized ride for children, that in the major thunderstorm, was now just idly waiting for the rain to abate, as were we. So much fun!
Xico is also famous for coffee and their ‘mole’ Xiqueno, made with over 24 ingredients, which boasts flavors of banana, apple, nuts and ancho chile. Mole (pronounced Moh-la) is one of the most iconic local Mexican dishes. This rich, thick sauce comes in many forms and can make a delicious meal all on its own when spread over fresh, fluffy tortillas!
Xico is one of the best places in Mexico to experience the culture and history of the people of Veracruz. These elements all come together when you encounter the surreal dancing clowns known as payasos.. We could not understand the scene unfolding before our eyes, so we just took it all in and researched its meaning and history later). We were in the right place at the right time, in order to experience the parade of the Payasos during our lunch break. The tradition of the dance dates back to the arrival of the Spanish who used it as a form of evangelizing the indigenous people. The clowns wear carved wooden masks in unsettling expressions. They all have colorful costumes, tall pointy hats, and clap castanets while they dance.
Xico hosts a very interesting Museum of Dresses, for the yearly pageant in honor of Santa Maria Magdelena. Every year a dress is made for the Fiesta of the Virgin Magdalena. Some of these hand crafted dresses are over 100 years old, and yet, never out of stye!
Thanks to our dear friends for taking us to this magical town.
We also had opportunity for a short visit to the capital of Veracruz, Xalapa. A green, hilly, cultural city, full of parks. During our short visit, we visited the Antropology museum of Xalapa. The museum houses the largest collection of artifacts from Mexican Gulf Coast cultures, such as the Olmec, the Huastec and the Totonac periods, with more than 25,000 pieces. The most notable pieces in the museum are the giant Olmec heads and the smaller Totonac ones.
As an interesting note, is that Xalapa is the place of origin of the famous jalapeño peppers. HOT!